2008年7月17日木曜日

Mount Fuji and Back



Good Evening All

Last September over one hundred jet lagged exchanged students gathered in one of Ritsumeikan’s brand new lecture halls for our first orientation meeting. At that time we had yet to cover any sort of logistics, so what we were presented with was a introduction to life in Kyoto and Japan in general. The leader of the session was Jason, the international student advisor who would later become a very beneficial source of guidance and friendship. Jason showcased his own photography, experiences and words of wisdom. The one thing I remember him saying was to take advantage of your time in Japan. With respect to this comment Jason mentioned one thing in particular: every year a group of exchange students has the chance to climb Mount Fuji. From that day in September I knew that Fuji-san would be one of my destinations prior to my return home. Finally, last week, with the help and organization of the Study in Kyoto Program Buddies (Japanese students who volunteer to help out exchange students), I was able to reach the summit of Fuji-san and more importantly come back to tell the story.

After waking very early on the 5th of July, shouldering my bursting backpack and riding the city bus to Kyoto station I was well on my way to Mount Fuji. However, once I boarded the tour bus that would take us to Yamanashi-ken (Yamanashi Prefecture) I realized that I had to endure a long uncomfortable bus ride before starting my climb. In other words, Japanese buses still do not accommodate for anyone taller that 175cm. I came to out of my sleepless daze as our bus arrived at base camp number 5 of 10 at roughly 17:00 (that’s five in the early evening, army time guys, get used to it). At approximately 18:15, after eating surprisingly nice meal of udon, fish, pickles and veggies, the yellow group (my climbing group) started up the mountain, that’s right, we were in for a night hike.

In order to avoid getting altitude sickness, which is caused by a mixture of the body/brain not receiving enough oxygen and not properly adjusting to the different pressure as altitude increases, the yellow group kept a slow pace until we reached base camp number 8. We had been hiking for four hours in winter conditions, but the fleece vest that I was wearing, which I stole from my father and the trail mix that I had made in Kyoto, kept me right on track. From 23:30 to 1:20 I slept in the closest quarters of my entire life. At least two hundred people were sleeping shoulder-to-shoulder in this amazingly small cabin on the side of Fuji-san only a few kilometers away from the summit. Sleeping above the clouds is something that I will never forget. I will also not forget waking up centimeters from my friend’s drooling face.



From 1:30 until 4:30, my good friend from Bulgaria Lilia and I made a mad dash for the summit and in the end it was worth it. In the last few hundred meters of the trail as we passed through a few Shinto gates, the sky behind us was glowing brighter and brighter as if it were pushing us the mountain. Lilia and I reached the summit of Fuji-san, just moments before the sun broke the cloud line horizon. It was surreal. When the sun had rose far past the horizon I had already taken the chance to take a tour of the summit, saw the crater of Mount Fuji, which is probably from its last eruption in the early 1700’s in the Edo Period. It was time to descend. I had been dreading the moment for the whole hike. That is, over 3000 meters of steep switchbacks and my Ramras Family knees. In the end though, we all made it back to Kyoto safe, sound and for me very satisfied.



The very next weekend was the SKP (Study in Kyoto Program) Farewell Party in the heart of downtown. These semi-formal events always turn into a fun time, whether fun means socializing with your friends over a couple of drinks and some nice food, or drinking your friends under the table that has some nice food on it…socially. After the party a mass of foreign and Japanese students dressed in suits and yukata arose from the roaring basement lounge and on the shores of the Kamogawa (the Kamo River) where the conversations and hilarity continued into the wee hours of the morning when the whole wide world of Kyoto was fast a sleep.

Farewell


This weekend marked the climax of the Kyoto’s famous Gion Matsuri (Gion Festival). In 869 during the Heian Era of Japan, the Gion Matsuri origin came from a decree by the Emperor Seiwa to pray at Kyoto’s Yasaka Jinja (Yasaka Shrine) in order to rid Kyoto of it’s current plague of disease. The current Yamaboko, halberds or floats that are still hand made only using rope to fasten their gigantic structure, represent the spears that were used in purification rituals during times of sickness.

YAMABOKO




Yukata at Yasaka Jinja


These things are as I have said, huge. When I took a trip downtown last night to check out the small street market I saw these huge yamaboko measuring up to the adjacent department stores of downtown Kyoto on my way to the original Yasaka Jinja in the heart of Gion (commonly known as the Geisha district). For having been built and erected by hand, they are truly amazing. Apart from seeing the packed markets in the small side streets of downtown Kyoto, I also got to see a very special parade in the middle of the night that started inside of Yasaka Jinja and continued through the small streets of Gion. The clang of the bells, the high shrill of the flutes and the Maiko and Geiko running in and out the sliding wooden doors of their teahouses made for a truly aesthetic and unforgettable experience.

Geiko at Yasaka Jinja


PARADE

With only three weeks left in Kyoto, Japan I am beginning to feel, how can I say this…uneasy. I will be going home, but on the other hand I will be leaving Kyoto behind. I will have to make the most of these last few weeks and I will not fail to keep you all posted.

A big shout out to my previous advisor Jason for giving me the advice that made this year practically worry free and filled only the best of experienced including reaching the summit of Fuji-san, the best to you.

Until Next Time.

SEMI-Cicada

2008年7月5日土曜日

What DID happen of July the 4th?

God Bless America!

I don’t like using exclamation points! Whenever I read a text that includes a lot of exclamation points, I feel like the person who is writing is trying too hard to convey to the reader that what they have to say is really important! Happy Fourth of July!!!

See, there is a funny joke that I learned in elementary school, I think in Geoff Ruskin’s class, that went a little something like this: Is there a fourth of July in Japan (I think the example country was Britain, but for my sake I’ll use my current country of residence)?
Well of course there is, there is all around the world…yeah, I guess you had to be there…and be twelve years old in order to understand the true hilarity in the joke simple meaning.

Today is the day that I looked forward to as a child. The day where family and friends come together, eat drink and spend time together. A time to blow shit up in honour of our still young nation’s founding. As the day progressed I began to think about why it took me almost half of the day to remember that today, a day that holds so many wonderful memories, was my country’s independence day. First of all, I am thousands of miles from any true American media, besides that music that I have on my computer and the Americans that I live and go to school with. Second, since I always celebrate the Fourth during my summer break, it was hard to make a connection to the day of remembrance while in the middle of a regular academic term.

On the other side of my complete oblivious united state of mind, there are so many other important things that happened on this day aside from the 1776 Declaration of Independence and John Hancock’s famous signature. Let us reflect on a couple of monumental historic moments that also fall on this Fourth. In 1903 Theodore Roosevelt opened the first Pacific cable from Manila to San Francisco. More ironically, though, is the fact that today in 1946 the Philippines ceased to be a United States colony. Talk about a day to remember independence! Oops.

At the beginning of this week I had the pleasure of meeting my high school Japanese teacher, Tashibu Sensei, in Kyoto during here annual summer/spring trip to Japan. Accompanied with two handfuls of recently graduated Roosevelt High School students, I immediately sensed the presence of exhaustion in Sensei’s voice when I made my first call to her last weekend. “Would you please take the kids out for a night on the town Asher?”, Sensei kindly asked. Aside from my genuine interest in showing visitors around Kyoto, I could not pass up an opportunity to provide Sensei with a small slot of time for some rest and relaxation.

I planned to take the children out to dinner at a well-known eatery in the Ritsumeikan neighbourhood, followed by a healthy session of karaoke. However, I started to doubt my plans when the first group of kids met me with their hands full of MacDonald’s. Also, I told that one of the students had “disappeared” and whose whereabouts were still unknown. What else is one to expect from high school students? So as I rode the city bus from the middle of Kyoto to the university neighbourhood, with a group of half satiated high school students, missing one friend, I decided go with the flow and not change my plans. After a nice meal we took a nice stroll in terribly humid weather and proceeded to a nearby karaoke box. Two hours later I had a group of karaoke-hungry children planning their next outing that I assume will include more screaming and middle school nostalgia. The lost child was found and experiences varied.



I am climbing a mountain tomorrow. Kanagawa marks the most western part of the Kanto region of Japan, which includes the national capital of Tokyo. Lying between the border of Shizuoka and Yamanashi prefectures stands a majestic dormant volcano. My destination, along with 79 other exchanged students and Japanese students, is Fuji-san (Mount Fuji), towering 3,776 m (12,388 ft) above sea level. I have only reached the summit of two legit mountains in my life: Metzada, in Israel and Squaw Peak, in Phoenix, Arizona. Fuji-san will definitely be the tallest summit I will have reached in my life-that is if I can step up to the challenge. The challenge being 14 hours of climbing with 1 cup of rice, some trail mix, 2 liters of water, winter conditions and 2 hours of sleep. I have checked my list twice and am super pumped to climb. With my Mom, Pops, Grama and Chloe on my shoulders, I should be back at base camp soaking in an onsen (public bath) in no time. For now though, I have to finish making some onigiri (hand held rice balls) for tomorrow’s trek.

Shout out to John Hancock, beer, hotdogs and ketchup; dirty white t-shirts, spilled drinks, explosions and 332 years of freedom.

Until Next Time