The Seasons They Are A Changin' . . .

Good Evening All,

I just returned from an unfortunate trip to downtown Kyoto. Why unfortunate? I am almost reluctant to answer, but I am obliged to do so since I posed the question. I decided to be my flexible self again and agree to go to an all-you-can-eat pizza restaurant called "Shaky's". I should have know from the start and from the restaurant's name that I was in for it. I did enjoy the abundance of cheese that had been lacking in my diet, but apparently forgot about the death-like feeling that accompanies the consumption of more than seven slices of pizza, mediocre and amazing alike. One thing I do not regret is the desert pizza, custard and choclate sauce, please, you know you would too. Before going to the pizza store, roaming the shopping district, I stumbled across a sweet pair of high-top Puma shoes, coffee coloured. I haven't worn high-tops since Bruce Katka's third grade class-they were Nike and green with velcro. Either way, I shouldn't have got my hopes up, becuase any fool who is . . . well foolish enough to expect a Japanese shoe store to carry a size 30 is dreaming. I like dreams.

I went to a Sentou (a Japanese style public bathhouse) on Thursday. The entry fee was surprsingly cheap and the routine was simple enough for any foreigner to seem like a trained bathing veteran. First pay the nice old man in the front; get naked; pre-wash while sitting on a bucket in front of a pipping hot faucet; enter the communal hot bath, mineral bath, cold bath, outside hot bath, or sauna; relax. I perposely failed to mention the most exciting part of the Sentou experience, the electrified bath (denki-ofuro, literally electric bath). The bath is completely safe, but let me tell you, the current is definitely noticable. after immersing myself into the water I could feel electric currents surge through my fingers, into my forearms and up to my shoulders, now I know how all those poor golfers feel. The electric experience was heady, to say the least. If anybody gets the chance to try it, please, humor yourself and hop in. After dipping into almost every pool in the place the crew headed out for some beer and a bite-sleeping like a baby ensued. Cleanliness is next to not Godliness, but rediculously old, hairy, smiling, gargling, spitting, Japanese men who, without self-restriction, glare at your privates.

With respect to the title of this entry, Japan is now in the midst of one its most beloved seasons, autumn, in which the Koyo (changing leaves) are indeed a sight to be seen. People from all over the Kansai area, flock to Kyoto's most famous temples and parks to witness the changing of the leaves. The most famous time to see this annual natural phenomenon is actually at night, when various temples suck up watts upon watts of energy for couples and families alike to witness the changing leaves lit up in flouresence; the leaves and the seemingly endless spectrum of colours they display are truly awesome. A couple friends of mine, Harry from England, and Robert also born in the U.K., went to Arashiyama-a huge complex of temples and grounds that was once a vacation home for one of the Shogun's inner cabinet members in the Tokugawa Period (1603-1868)-to see the Koyo.


(from left to right) Harry, Me, and Robert


There were literally hundreds of these dimly lit stone Buddhas at the entrance of Arashiyama

I was not completely aware of how interesting this specific and obsessive sight-seeing spectical was until I sat through a lecture about Shinto this afternoon. Shinto is often labeled as a religion-in fact Shinto was used as a politico-religious tool to unite Japan under the divine Emperor (tennou) shortly after the Meiji Restoration in 1868, ending over two hundred years of Shogunal rule. Why do some aruge that Shinto is not a religion? The Professor who gave the lecture today began with a simple explaination using the kanji for the word Shinto. Shin 神 uses the kanji that represents gods, deities, or spirits, not the big G-O-D, mind you. The kanji for tou 道 is the same kanji used for street, road, passage, or way. Now some of you might be thinking, 'I've heard of "the way" before, that's Buddhism.' Good observation. However, the kanji for Buddhism tells all. Bukkyou (仏教), is represented by the kanji Bu and kyou, Buddha and teaching, respectively. As in the case of Buddhism, all other world religions are written with the same final character of "kyou" (teaching, remember?). The professor also touched on the fast that each world religion has a founder, a primary text, and a place of worship (Judaism for example: Abraham, the Torah, and Synagogues). Shinto has none of these, except shrines, where even worship is not practiced, only the summoning of deities-just clap your hands twice. Thus, Shinto, not Shinto-ISM, is set apart from the rest, not as a religion but as a passage through life. Which brings back to the leaves. Spring marks the birth of the leaves, Summer, their growth-skipping fall-Winter, their death, and more importantly Autumn the time of their maturity. Autumn and the reccurring Koyo symbolize the matiruty that is to be had by all along the way, in the passage, and throughout the experience of Shinto life.





Shout out to my Jewish familiy everywhere, for I will be missing you madly this Channukah. And a special shout out to my Dad and Grandpa Georgie for the eternally delicious latke recipe, love you both.

Until Next Time All